The Spot: A few hundred metres up from the cathedral on Ly Quoc Su street, this is up-market pho amongst a few curbside eateries. Fashion boutiques, tailors and handicraft shops denote this area as 'Tourist Central' and this joint is aiming for a cut of hard currency, too.
Space and Atmosphere: Verging on sanitised fast food outlet, with a glassed off kitchen, trendy downlights (as opposed to the usual naked lightbulb swinging in the breeze), big heavy timber chairs and tables, fresh lick of paint on the walls, menus and uniformed waitresses in pink. Not the 'shout-and-push fest' of the average Hanoi pho stop. It's all rather sedate and civilised. Not one scrap of napkin or discarded wedge of lime underfoot.
Shopfront Style: Salmon and cream paint job on the exterior walls of this art-deco style first floor which mutates above into 'innovativist' Vietnamese apartment block style: ramshackle, tack-on roomed, prison bar security, undies and caged birds hanging out the windows amongst a belief-defying tangle of electrical cables. Like the orange and brown signage, though. That's what caught my eye in the first place.
Sticks, Condiments and Crockery: In most Hanoi soup stations the chopsticks are washed and re-used bamboo. Here, in what is a first, I experienced disposable sticks, wrapped in plastic and snapped apart for use. The crockery and condiment receptacles are classic white - all a bit Country Road really, but a refreshing change from the floral numbers that are the norm.
Serving Station: All angles of glass, stainless steel, big stacks of white bowls, pots, steam and a little window at front where the product is despatched for delivery.
Meat Generosity: In keeping with the specifications of the Hanoi pho swoop, I order the double meat variation, tai chin. The tai (rare beef) is pink and tender, the thin slices of chin (like corned beef) would be fit for a white bread sandwich with tomato chutney, almost completely devoid of chewy fat. Plenty of both. Good quality cow!
Order to Delivery Gap: Snappy and with a smile.
Stock factor: Clear, a bit dark and robust. What I like about the soup here is the herb generosity. Even though there's no side plate of herbs as in the south, the soup is topped with blanched spring onions and lots of mint. This soup is no slap-dash affair. Someone cares.
Cost: 12,000VND (USD74c, AUD$1.00) a bowl, surprising considering the surroundings. I thought it could be more. Check out the menu.
Rank: FourFive of eightnineten
Oooh.. Phancy Pho... I recall walking past this place several times and wondering if it was good. Even more interesting is the deli-like banh mi shop across the street. Have you been there yet?
Posted by: Austin | 07 October 2006 at 08:10 PM
Are you going to post the rankings somewhere? They change with each new pho review.
Posted by: HanoiMark | 08 October 2006 at 09:14 AM
Austin, that banh my shop has intrigued me for years...like so many other places!!!! Next time I'm in the region, I'll try to drop in.
Hanoimark - I've been considering this matter for a while. I do alter the rankings on each pho post, though.
Posted by: Sticky | 09 October 2006 at 09:05 PM
What a treasure trove of information. Kudos to you for the pictures and the lovingly reported details. Off on a Hanoi Pho adventure this afteroon. Thanks for the dedication.
Posted by: serge | 29 October 2006 at 12:35 PM
Thanks for all the reviews -- you have a great website going!
Is this joint still open (Jan 2008)? My wife and I have biked up and down the block on a couple of occasions with no luck locating it. The address appears to be 10 ly quoc su
Posted by: dan | 26 January 2008 at 04:12 PM
The cleanliness and proximity appealed, so we went there this morning. The pho was delicious. I finally understand the fuss.
Thanks for the great pho spot (and other restaurant) writeups - they have been tremendously helpful on our visit!
Posted by: Olivia | 15 March 2009 at 03:09 PM