Third Time Lucky

Seeking out new eateries in Hanoi should be straightforward. It's possible to pull up almost anywhere in this city, reach out and snatch a handful of snack, whether it be a piece of fruit, a steamed bun, a sugary donut thingie on a stick, a bread roll stuffed with pork, herbs and chili or a duck's fetus for that matter. The problem is that, after almost five years of such excessive choice, one gets picky.

What happens is the snack one most feels like is suddenly elusive. It might be off the menu, out of season or bad luck to eat when the moon is waxing. Maybe the vendor, who's been on the hustings every day of my 1500 day stay in Hanoi suddenly has one off. Or perhaps the joint being eyed is packed to the rafters, an under the table payment not even ensuring a pew. At such moments, a mild hissy fit ensues and the motorbike wheel is turned in the direction of an old favourite.

I do persevere, though.

On the third Saturday morning attempt, I happened to time my run on this old quarter banh cuon eathouse to perfection. The group seated outside on the footpath were downing chopsticks and inserting toothpicks. They were on the way out and I was in. But this was one crowded shack.

Banh cuon is a bit of a process which I've documented before and won't describe again, save to say that in a popular joint like this one, the scooping, smothering, steaming, peeling, rolling, cutting, scattering and garnishing routine takes forever when one is down the queue a bit.

More perseverence is required.

It is worth it, though. Banh cuon is steamed rice pancake, in which is rolled a tasty mixture of minced pork and tree-ear mushroom. On top, the crunch of dried shallots and the zing of mint and coriander and, for dipping, a golden nuoc cham. An egg is slapped in pancake for a bit of variation.

A new favourite is added to my list of Hanoi food gold. I may never get a berth again, though!

Pancake Hike

Two serves of banh cuon, two egg numbers, one iced tea - 42,000VND (USD$2.60, AUD$3.40)

Thanh Van Banh Cuon
14 Hang Ga
Old Quarter, Hanoi

Comments

[Rasa Malaysia]

Wow, these rice cakes look absolutely delish!

[Henno]

Haha, again - awesome. I'm just going to take a pen and notebook and go through your archive and write down all the "must-eat" joints in Hanoi - it's much better than the Lonely Planet's guide will ever be! Regards from Saigon (where the food is good, but not so well documented hehe)

[Stephanie]

Really enjoy Sticky Rice ... now you've set me off on a search for Banh cuon in Victoria Street, Melbourne.

[Thao Khuc]

Hey Sticky, I really enjoy ur posts. Vietnamese food is the best!!! :D

[a viet ~]

Hahahah ... HENNO!! That's EXACTLY what I say!!! :)

Thanks for the pix! I will keep drooling till I get my butt back to Vietnam on Dec 15! ;)

Then I will be going out for some serious banh cuon!!

[Sticky]

Thanks all.
Henno - the food in Saigon is so well documented. You just don't know where to look. Check this out, especially the archives. http://www.noodlepie.com/
Pieman is no longer with us in Vietnam, at least in body. But his spirit lurks and his legacy is mighty!

A Viet - hope you enjoy your return!

[Austin]

Is that the banh cuon place in the tiny alley near Hang Da Market? I'm not sure if it's the best in the city, but it was recommended, and I ate breakfast there two days in a row when I was in Hanoi!

And by the way, I know what you mean about getting picky. There are about 30,000 places to eat within 5 miles of my house, but I often suffer from the "there's nothing to eat" feeling...

Austin

[Flora Fling]

Makes my mouth water.

[Sticky]

Austin - this place is to the northern end of the old quarter. I've never heard of the banh cuon near the Hang Da market. Will have to check it out.