Hoi An Streetfood:Com Ga

Cao Lau is not the only grub available at street level in Hoi An. A night wander through the old lanes took me past numerous kerosene lamp lit stalls turning out a simple dish called com ga, which translates exactly to chicken rice.

In subtle light a degree brighter than pitch black, rice is dug out of a bamboo basket insulated with plastic sheeting. Chicken flesh shredded from a nearby carcass is piled atop the rice, followed by a spoonful of its stewed innards and congealed blood. Finely sliced onion, a tangle of herbs, a spot of pepper and lemon combine to make a flavour marriage which is almost perfect.

Alas, the vendor informed us, it was the final night of streetfood in the old town thanks to some new by-law preventing cluttered pavements coming into effect the very next day. Such vendors are being forced into proper premises or more obscure cracks and darkened spaces.

Is this a sign of the times?

A mini-death-knell for streetfood?

I fear for my future in Hanoi.

Comments

[Robyn]

I hate to say it Sticky, but I think vendor-less streets are the wave of the future in Asia... I feel your pain.

[noodleoodle]

That is a very disturbing prospect.

Cau loa looks great, I'll never get to eat in from the street.

[Tu Van Cong]

This is a great dish and I love it.
Hi noodleoodle, What is Cau loa? Do you know street food is the best and cheap.

[noodleoodle]

Hello God - Many spelling mistakes. I meant to say, I was disturbed that I wont have the opportunity to sample this particular dish (com ga) from a street vendor. Don't know know what Cau loa is. Have no idea why I wrote that...

[HanoiMark]

See my article in Global Voices about this blog post and other developments:
http://www.globalvoicesonline.org/2007/06/14/street-food-and-the-gentrification-of-vietnam/