Ceremonial Rice

In Vietnam's north, it's mad pagoda pilgrimage season. The first period of the lunar new year sees Hanoians heading to the incense urns and altars of pagodas all around the city and surrounding provinces. Busloads of pilgrims pour into these oriental religious complexes, armed with offerings, incense and money in small denominations to feed the ancestral gods in exchange for wealth, health, profit and success.

Low grade pandemonium reigns, to be honest.

Last weekend, at Ba Chua Kho in Bac Ninh, there was pushing and shoving, conning and shouting. The pagoda warden had his mouth attached to a loudspeaker, barking rules and warning the muster of pickpockets. Ceremonial paper and incense were being burnt at a rate which would warrant its inclusion in future carbon trading schemes. A breath of fresh air and a quiet prayer were hard to come by.

Cultural difference is a wonderful thing. I stood back and took it all in.

Trays were being carried on high, laden with cooked chickens, fruit, biscuits, flowers, soft drink, beer, money and golden tinsel trees (cay vang bac). Crowns of orange sticky rice added to the spectrum.

Called xoi gac, this rice is sold at the foot of the stairs leading up to the pagoda gate. While not as colourful as the rainbow rice I found in Sapa last year, it is prepared by combining the fleshy interior of the gac (a relative of the jackfruit) with glutinous rice that has been soaking for six or seven hours. The rice's glossy finish and subtle sweetness is achieved by the use of various other ingredients in the steaming process, including rice wine, salt, sugar, vanilla and oil.

Xoi gac is strikingly eye-catching, the colour of luck and respect.

For believers, not skeptics like me!

Comments

[bob]

i love xoi gac! it is a staple for every wedding/engagement dinner here in the atlanta, georgia area among the viet community... it is so sweet and sticky and dep qua....

[Sticky]

Bob - it's much the same in Hanoi, also prevalent in food stalls around pagodas at festival time. Pretty indeed!

[Jessie]

Yummm, that sounds just like what my grandmother used to make for us on our birthdays. Yes, I think it was called xoi gac. I have my own place now, and just seeing xoi gac again makes me realize how much I've missed it. And I think I may have the recipe somewhere hidden in my attic! Ooh, I'm excited now. I have an old Zojirushi cooker (http://wize.com/rice-cookers-and-steamers/zojirushi-ns-lac05-rice-cooker/193660#t=738)

Would it be able to handle making xoi gac? My grandmother used to use something different which we threw away a while back. I don't want to damage my cooker but I suddenly have a craving for xoi gac!