Halfway up the mountain to the holy bronze pagoda at Yen Tu (Quang Ninh Province), there are half a dozen green corrugated tin eat-houses. When pilgrims do the early morning climb, these primitive sheds double as overnight dormitories. Nestled on the side of the hill between the two stages of cable car that save worshippers what is a strenuous four hour climb, I get the sense that these places offered more of a respite from the delirium of two hours of uphill agony rather than any great or exotic culinary experience.
Today, the luxury afforded by the cable car is that folks can cart a picnic lunch and a half up the mountain themselves. The Vietnamese are remarkable in their pack-horse mentality. 'Packing light' is not a concept in this country. This can be witnessed most emphatically at airports and bus stations where individuals struggle onto conveyances with two rice-cookers and ten kilos of lychees - in addition to their bags. Here, five hundred metres above sea-level, it can also be observed, albeit on a smaller scale. Thermos flasks, plastic bags filled with Heinneken cans, packages of sticky-rice, whole cooked chickens, store-bought cakes and potato crisps and thousands of mandarins and dragon fruit are lugged mountainside. Hunched over little old grannies in bare feet carry some of the load, well-to-do Hanoian matriarchs under umbrellas in high-heeled trainers manage their share, strong lithe boys hold mobile phones in one hand, the heaviest plastic bag of supplies in the other.
Mats are spread in the courtyards of the various pagodas on the ascent to the top where trays of offerings are prepared. The food is also quickly gobbled down and thus, the load is lightened for the remaining and most daunting section of the climb.
Of course, if carrying the kilos of picnic stuff is too much like hard work, rocking up to one of the eating houses is the other option. Here, Bambi is waiting for another hunk of his neck to be hacked off for someone's lunch.
That's not just a deer...its an ENDANGERED Sao la. Only about 250 left in the world and Vietnam is their last hold. Quite sad that they are still being huntd and consumed illegally, and too bad you guys didnt know any better before you posted this embarassing shot.
Posted by: Stymie McCoy | 01 August 2008 at 12:01 PM
I thought it was a saola - wow that's a good image that could be put to good use by some of the environmental NGO's who are campaigning against the chowing down on such endangered animals. I'll forward the web link on to a few folks who might be able to use it.
Poor saola.....
Posted by: Paula | 19 August 2008 at 12:11 PM
Stymie - I'm not embarassed about the photograph at all. In fact, if it has actually drawn attention to the plight of this poor beast, then I'm particularly proud if it. We can't all be foodies and environmental activists at the same time.
Paula - it seems your contacts are 'following up' on this. When are we likely to see you back in 'Nam????
Posted by: Sticky | 21 August 2008 at 09:30 AM
hrmmmmmmmmmm.....not saying anything. Like your blog though!
Posted by: Phet | 15 September 2008 at 05:36 AM
O man... I can just imagine how a few of my pals here would scream bloody murder if they see the photo (I get dirty looks just for having a pair of deer skin shoes). :oP What an interesting blog this is. I have Fabletoo at AssociatedContent to thank for linking to it.
Cheers!
Posted by: Smorg | 15 October 2008 at 01:14 PM
Although this is a very sad photo, but information wise, I don't believe this is the endangered saola that some people here are claiming. Don't saolas have horns (both male & female) and the distinctive white markings on their faces? Perhaps some people ought to double check their info before throwing a tantrum. *ahem*
Posted by: cbtj19 | 22 October 2008 at 05:34 AM