Let's not forget pho

An acquiantance of mine is leaving Hanoi after three years. Last week at a farewell lunch, we got to talking about food. It was me who guided the conversation there as I'm fairly shallow on other topics. I'm always intrigued by how little exposure some medium-to-long-term ex-pats have had to street food. I wanted to interrogate the acquaintance, see what her form was like.

Not that this is how I judge people, of course.

I try not to, anyway. But I got the sense that the acquaintance's excitement about Vietnamese cuisine and the local specialties was limited to her first year here. She claimed to have overdosed on pho, admitting to knocking off three bowls a day on occasion, one for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The acquaintance was fast becoming a friend, or at the very least an inspiration for a future post. Even I have not attempted this 'pho three-peat feat'.

While the acquaintance lost her pho mojo early on, citing some kind of MSG giddiness, I have soldiered on. I may not have written about it for a year or more but be assured that noodle soup is still slurped and sipped regularly at stickyrice HQ. I still revere the pho ritual. I feel excited when waiting for my bowl to arrive, chopsticks cursorily cleaned with paper and ready. Juice is extracted from a wedge of lime. Hot red sauce is passed over in favour of a few slices of fresh chili. A drop of garlic-infused vinegar, a shake of pepper. The ceremonial lifting and dropping of the noodles with the sticks and spoon to mix the condiments in signals that the preparation is done. Afterwards, I wipe my mouth with a square of flimsy napkin and insert the toothpick.

And I feel as if I should genuflect as I back out onto the street.

Is there a need to resurrect the Hanoi Pho Swoop, to revise it with a chapter or two, to suck up new noodles and spit out new words?

I wonder.

Comments

[Sailinghome]

I always have two bowls of pho in one sitting in Pho Tin when I go there... the most I've managed is three bowls at another place nearer the centre of town. three bowls in a day seems a little lacklustre...!! LOL.

[Sticky]

For volume in one sitting, you are the undisputed champion slurper. My wonder and intrigue with the acquaintance was her capacity to have the same dish for her three main meals in one day. I wonder if it was a completely different experience each time.

[icky]

bring back the swoop!!

[Sticky]

Yes, maybe at less regular intervals, Icky!

[RecipeOfTheWeek]

Pho-get about it! I could this everyday and be content!

[Chi]

For a good, hearty bow of Pho, I do recommend a place called Pho Tu Lun, is on Hai Ba Trung st, just opposite Trang Tien plaza. For me ,it is the best Pho in Hanoi. Have to go early in the morning, it usually sold out pretty quick. The place is very basic , you know plastic chairs and tables on the dirty pavement but it is worth a try!

[Sticky]

Thanks Chi. I'm always on the lookout for pho recommendations. I will check it out. How early do they normally sell out by?

[Chi]

I was probably too pessimistic when I said it sold out quickly. If I remember correctly I was still able to have some for lunch the last time I went, but without the "quay" ( I always dissapoint if there is no "quay"!!). I hope you like it, I just prefer its beef stock to others. It is full of flavour, not the clear and clean kind of thing! But beware, when the weather is hot, the place is unbearable, probably best to go when it's below 30 degree C! Happy eating :)