There is fire on the streets of Hanoi.
It's beating down from above and reflecting back up from below. Temperatures are peaking in the capital and the midday walk to lunch is a scorcher. Hand fans are waving, umbrellas are shading folks from the sun and eyes peer out from cool, darkened cracks in the streetscape. There is a general reluctance to go out. Even the traffic is in a strange state of sedation in July.
But the heat's no reason to go hungry. If I collapse with heatstroke, I will do so on a full stomach.
A stomach stuffed with a specialty from Phu Ly, a town in Ha Nam province. This dish is just a regional variation on a theme really. Its foundation is pre-prepared sheets of banh cuon, a steamed rice pancake which can be eaten straight from the steamer all over Hanoi. Here the sheets are bought elsewhere, cut up into ribbons and loosened in a bowl with a bit of oil. Handfuls of moorish dried shallots are scattered amongst the white before porked grilled roadside is placed on top.
It's essentially bun cha meets banh cuon.
On the side is a basket of incredibly fresh mint and coriander and a dipping sauce consisting of fish sauce, vinegar, lime and fresh chilli which I doctor up myself at the table.
My table is next to the fire where fat fueled flames are licking over the curb, dangerously close to a line of motorbikes. My mercury rises and patches of perspiration develop on my shirt as this light, satisfying lunch slides down.
This place is hot on my list of current lunchtime favourites.
Lunch Money
One serve banh cuon, one iced tea - 20,000VND (USD$1.12, AUD$1.40)
Banh Cuon Phu Ly
64 Bich Cau
Dong Da District
Hanoi
Look like barbecue but I if the taste is also like that any ways,...your blog always keep me hungry I will be back for the next posted.
Posted by: fioricet online | 07 July 2009 at 01:17 PM
Looks gorgeous! I'm a sucker for grilled pig in any shape or form.
Hmm...looks like you're getting the same blog spam I am!
Posted by: Robyn | 11 July 2009 at 05:29 PM
wow,this seems to be the best Bun Cha and Banh Cuon so far, best combination. Pls post more pics, your blog is a destination whenever I crave for my homeland food
Posted by: Julie Pham | 12 July 2009 at 09:17 AM
Wow, Looks delicious. And I guess it has lots of flavor when you bite it. Good post. Keep it up
Posted by: Prozac | 13 July 2009 at 01:50 PM
Yes Robyn, sometimes hard to sort the authentic comments from the rest. Much easier to sort the authentic street food from the rest, though!
Julie, glad you feel the nostalgia...come back for a visit!
Posted by: Sticky | 13 July 2009 at 09:16 PM
i felt hungry when i saw your blog. I love that food, hope i can taste that..:D
Posted by: carisoprodol | 06 August 2009 at 01:42 PM
whenever the weather wants to start cooperating -_- This is on one of my first stops!
I would love to meet for lunch one day if you are ever avaliable, you seem to find the best places!
I can show you some great food as well...I will email you with my info, would be great to meet up.
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