Winter Warmer

In winter, in the depths of the Old Quarter, a small stall opens. To the outsider, it could be mistaken as a secret members' only club, where passwords or coded signals are required for entry. If you come at the wrong time of year or day, what you have come seeking will not be there, almost as if it never existed. You will be left feeling bewildered, slightly left out...clearly not a member.

I am a 'member' of this seasonal food stall, located in what appears to be an ancient gateway to an Old Quarter family commune. This dark sheltered lane houses a smooth stone stelae of a horse, slightly military in style, perhaps acting as a protector of those living there. On a recent visit, while seated at the rear, I noticed that the alley opens out onto a communal courtyard enclosed by several of Hanoi's famous tube houses. Clothes were being hand-dunked in suds, an old woman washed her stringy grey strands of hair, a papaya was grated in a doorway. Eating in this 'club' is part culinary episode, part anthropology field trip.

But one doesn't get to stay long prying into these private moments, for the snack is small and the proprietor has a knack for moving people along.

Three exotic treats are issued in standard china rice bowls. Containing a staple of some of the sexiest ingredients in Asian cuisines, namely ginger, coconut and sesame, these 'desserts' have their origins in China.

The first one is banh troi tau, pounded rice flour covers encasing two different sets of fillings: black sesame paste and shredded coconut with ginger, each dumpling boiled before being served in a hot ginger infused syrup.The second bowl, called luc tau xa, consists of a sweetened puree of the common ingredient dau xanh (green bean) made interesting by the addition of orange zest, lotus seeds and fine slices of a fruit known as ma thay, which bites a bit like a water chestnut. What this final element translates as remains a mystery! The final offering is a smooth sugary black sesame soup known as chi ma phu.

To avoid being shunted out by the owner, who is famous comedian and actor Pham Bang, I had dragged a film crew from VTV along with me and ordered multiple bowls for all. We could sit, savour and enjoy. The film crew from the program "Talk Vietnam" were filming some footage to accompany an interview with me taped earlier for a program on Vietnamese food to be screened some time soon. I'll keep you posted on developments there - I think it could even be shown on their overseas channel.

Anyway, if venturing to Hanoi in the winter, join the throngs at this clandestine little sweet shop.

10,000VND (USD54c, AUD59c) a serve

Banh Troi Tau Pham Bang
30 Hang Giay
Old Quarter
Hanoi
(3.30 - 10.30pm, November - April)

Comments

[my spatula]

ohh, so sweet. how i wish i was there.

[Hoang Le Thanh Trang]

I think you mean Pham Bang. And yes, his snacks are delicious. The moment I got back to Hanoi last summer, I went in search for "banh troi tau Pham Bang." Unfortunately, the stall was closed until well after I left. Thank you, for bringing it back for me.

-T.

[katiek]

Hi there,

I've chanced upon your blog a couple of times and every time I leave I feel pangs of jealousy and hunger. Anyways, this is the first time that I can really relish in its goodness as I am traveling to Hanoi for the first time to EAT.

You have a lot of recommendations on your website, but I am finding it hard to make any choices (the disease of to many options). Do you have a some good recommendations on where to dine about? I am non-discrimatory, take comfort in the taste of good broth, and there for a week.

I'd love to here your suggestions

[Quynh]

Yes I think the program will be shown on the oversea channel because Talk Vietnam is actually one of that channel's program. Too sad I don't have VTV4 in my house here, or I could have seen a recap of you adventure. It would be so much fun!

[Meghan and Conor]

Thank-you for your post. We went there this evening in search of a sweet way to end our time in Hanoi. And we found it, it was fricking awesome. We ordered all 3 but couldn't finish them. A delight.

[wine of the month club]

Man those look good. I don't know why I torture myself reading your blog before lunch.

[Luiz Hara]

Hi, just arrived for a few days, will go through some of these amazing recommendations, any special recommendation for Tet? Many thanks, and hope to be able to reciprocate if you are ever in London!

Luiz @ The London Foodie

[FlavorBoulevard]

Hi Stickyrice, can the fruit that tastes like chesnut be water coconut (dua nuoc)?

[Sticky]

Thanks all! Sorry I've been so slack responding to comments!
Not sure FlavourBoulevard, they are small - about the size of a rambutan, brown skin, white flesh - not much like a coconut really, though I don't know what a water coconut is....so?
Luiz and Meghan and Conor - Glad you enjoyed eating in HN.
VTV show still hasn't screened as far as I know, Quynh.

[Nui]

I suddenly know ur blog when i watch Talk Vietnam on VTV1 at 9.45 am today :p I'm a Vietnamese, i feel very proud of all u wrote \:d/

And I want to edit a bit of information :p

Banh Troi Tau Pham Bong
30 Hang Giay

His name's Pham Bang or write by Vietnamsese : Phạm Bằng
Not Pham Bong :p Hi

Thanks for reading my trifling comment :p Cya

P/S : Can u add my Y!M acc, because I really want to improve my English..And I know, you're an English teacher

My Y!M : nui_h2p

Thanks :">

[Hoang]

mã thầy IS waterchestnut, the very same used extensively in Chinese stir-fries, the word doesn't mean anything to me either, it's just a name...