Pho Tiu originated in China and came to Hanoi via the south of Vietnam
There are not enough lunchtimes in a whole year for this cheapskate to get through the nosh on offer at half eleven in Hanoi. Ngo Dong Xuan is a lunchmuncher's Diagon Alley. This lane, which shoots south from the once burnt to a frazzle Dong Xuan Market to Hang Chieu Street, is a ramshackle collection of fab feeds.
Yesterday, we zoomed up the skinny alley, banged the motorbike into the parking cave on the right (2000VND:USD12c,AUD16c) and hoed into a big bowl of Pho Tiu. This stall is a mother-sister-daughter partnership - the women in this culture are renowned for banding together to scrape up extra dong to keep the family ticking along. Bloody hard workers, this lot! Marvellous how they have adapted to doing it all sitting down!
Poor sister has a hunch back and can crack with the heat on occasion - or with long-legged whities like me who don't fit in the furniture. I'm not scared of her anymore. She barks and I oblige. The rules are clear.
Anyway....the nosh! As the name suggests, it's noodle nosh. Poor sister dunks pho in hot water and drains. Her sister (that would be mother?) portions scrummy slices of roasted pork, blanched beanshoots, scissored herbs, crushed nuts and dried shallots on top. Now that all sounds yummy, but the trick with this one is the sauce.
An assortment of what could be mistaken for leak-catching containers - some big, some small - hold the unique, liquid ingredients, some hot, some cold. Mother spoons over varying measures of fish sauce, vinegar, thickened pork bone broth and some kind of light brown oil.
Mother
Our job? Slosh on the chili sauce, do the chopstick toss and bolt into it. Communal bowls of lettuce and herbs can be picked at, and a big tumbler of bia hoi (draught beer) can be shouted for from behind.
The Embarrassment of it all:
Noodles - 7000VND
Beer - 2000VND
Total for one (including parking): 11000VND(USD69c, AUD90c)
Phuong Beo Pho Tiu, Ngo Dong Xuan
had pho tiu today - love it - best 7000 we spent here so far....cheers
Posted by: Shev | 05 August 2005 at 02:26 PM
Let me know if you try anything else up there, guys. That alley's a bit like a buffet, isn't it?
Pho Tiu is a great feed!
Posted by: Sticky | 06 August 2005 at 11:30 AM
Hi
The best meal of our trip to Vietnam was the Pho Tiu at this table up the alley way. Fresh and packed with flavour - amazing!
Posted by: Virginia | 08 November 2012 at 10:58 AM
This Lady was the hi light of my 3 month trip in vietnam. I found her by accident and had a hell of a time finding her for a second go. Trying my damnedest to recreate this at home. anyone have a lead on a recipe?
Posted by: Nicole Mosa | 02 April 2014 at 06:41 AM