It's black, it's beans, it's in a big pot, there's a ladle but it's not soup. It's an icy, sugar fix called che dau den (black bean che), sold at the Sheraton Hotel end of Yen Phu Street, right-hand side footpath coming from the old quarter.
The woman who runs these baskets is a permanent fixture on this patch. In the warmer months, she ladles this dark, cool treat and, from tomorrow, dare I want to know it, she starts frying up sweet potato and banana fritters. I'm getting ahead of myself.
Che is a dessert drink, spooned and slurped, of which there are two on offer here: one is a yellow bean (che dau xanh) variety, the other this fine specimen below. Pot of yellow bean che has already been scraped empty, so we go the black. It consists of black beans swimming in a watery syrup and black cubes of jelly tossed over crushed ice - nothing spectacular, but I get me half an extra handful of that yummy crunch on top - toasted bits of coconut. I don't want to even know where you get hold of a bag of that stuff - I'd pig it down in one sitting!
I like plastic-stooling it here, where other street peddlars often spend a lazy 20 minutes, under a tree, fanning their sweat on the outside, cooling their insides with the icy che.
How much?
Not much, 2000VND (USD12c, AUD16c) a pop!
Mmm... Che. Yay!
Posted by: Sarah | 19 October 2005 at 01:35 AM
I love that stuff but still haven't found myself a regular che place. Not entirely sureof the etiquette of ordering it either. I like all the mixed up ones.
Just one thing - the jelly bit - I was told it was sago.
What do you reckon?
Posted by: omih | 19 October 2005 at 11:31 AM
One of the best places I know of might suit you, OMIH. It's in a dead end lane at 72G Tran Hung Dao.
Just wander in , sit down, say nothing and they will bring you a mixed one - that's all they do there. It's pricier than most (10,000VND) but good as they also include some seasonal fruit along with all the jelly and sago and beans. Check it out and let us know how you fare.
Posted by: Sticky | 19 October 2005 at 06:38 PM
Nice one - will check that out.
I was gutted today to find out that the kids in the KOTO training centre were making che today. We normally get a morning taster - but I was flying out of the door as they were being served up.
Posted by: OMIH | 20 October 2005 at 02:20 PM