Cao Lau is not the only grub available at street level in Hoi An. A night wander through the old lanes took me past numerous kerosene lamp lit stalls turning out a simple dish called com ga, which translates exactly to chicken rice.
In subtle light a degree brighter than pitch black, rice is dug out of a bamboo basket insulated with plastic sheeting. Chicken flesh shredded from a nearby carcass is piled atop the rice, followed by a spoonful of its stewed innards and congealed blood. Finely sliced onion, a tangle of herbs, a spot of pepper and lemon combine to make a flavour marriage which is almost perfect.
Alas, the vendor informed us, it was the final night of streetfood in the old town thanks to some new by-law preventing cluttered pavements coming into effect the very next day. Such vendors are being forced into proper premises or more obscure cracks and darkened spaces.
Is this a sign of the times?
A mini-death-knell for streetfood?
I fear for my future in Hanoi.
I hate to say it Sticky, but I think vendor-less streets are the wave of the future in Asia... I feel your pain.
Posted by: Robyn | 23 May 2007 at 08:24 AM
That is a very disturbing prospect.
Cau loa looks great, I'll never get to eat in from the street.
Posted by: noodleoodle | 23 May 2007 at 08:32 AM
This is a great dish and I love it.
Hi noodleoodle, What is Cau loa? Do you know street food is the best and cheap.
Posted by: Tu Van Cong | 24 May 2007 at 05:37 PM
Hello God - Many spelling mistakes. I meant to say, I was disturbed that I wont have the opportunity to sample this particular dish (com ga) from a street vendor. Don't know know what Cau loa is. Have no idea why I wrote that...
Posted by: noodleoodle | 29 May 2007 at 11:21 AM
See my article in Global Voices about this blog post and other developments:
http://www.globalvoicesonline.org/2007/06/14/street-food-and-the-gentrification-of-vietnam/
Posted by: HanoiMark | 14 June 2007 at 09:07 PM
That's interesting that 2 yrs ago they wanted to get rid of street vendors. I was just in Hoi An last week and street food culture is still going strong, including the com ga stalls, bun stalls, and pho stalls. I'm working my way up north in Vietnam and am excited to see what Hanoi has to offer.
Posted by: Diana | 09 July 2009 at 11:55 PM
It is with narrow-minded people as with narrow-necked bottle; the less they have in them the more noise they make in pouring out.
Posted by: Coach Sneakers | 02 March 2011 at 09:23 AM