While I am physically back in Vietnam, my mind is dawdling in the recent past.
Today, it's in Crete. At the Boutari Winery just outside Iraklio, a short drive from the ancient Minoan ruins of Knossos. A wine press discovered in the area dating back to 1600 B.C. suggests that Boutari's recent establishment here (2004) is in keeping with a long tradition of wine making. The 'retsina reputation' of Greek wines that existed in the 60s and 70s is well and truly over. This place is sophistication personified.
A modern sparse minimalist tasting and dining area with views across a valley near the village of Skalani gave us a magnificent first impression of Boutari, an essentially family run organisation with six estates throughout Greece and one in the south of France. The tour of the Fantaxometocho Estate in Crete took in the vineyards themselves, where we were encouraged to eat the grapes directly from the vines. A walk through the cellars preceded a hi-tech multi media show in an underground theatre which culminated in a rather seductive lesson in wine tasting. One glass of the company's Merlot went south at that point.
Up in the bright Greek light of day, our winery guide kindly lined up three more glasses and a basket of crispbread. In order of consumption, a dry white Fantoxometocho, a Cabernet Sauvignon from the estate in Macedonia and a sweet red dessert wine made entirely from the local variety Liatiko were inexpertly judged and drunk.
I'm no wine connoisseur but I came through customs in Hanoi with Cretan bottles clinking in my hand luggage.
Tipple Fees
Tour and tasting - €4 (86,000VND, AUD$7.90, USD$5.10)
Boutari Winery
Fantoxometocho Estate
Skalani, Iraklio
Crete
I still have a bottle of Boutari that I brought back from Greece years ago. It sits on a shelf in my kitchen... great memories. Thanks for this!
Posted by: MyLastBite | 03 December 2008 at 02:15 AM
Five dollars US for an experience like this? Unheard of in the states, especially in our "wine country" region of Sonoma/Napa Valley. What you described is utterly enchanting. Thanks for sharing this with us.
Posted by: Phil | 04 December 2008 at 03:01 AM
so glad to have you back - i have missed your food tastes, your humor, your sense of adventure, your version of hanoi and vietnam.
fascinating and fun and i often drool over the food.
i don't expect much more than a tiny bit now and then, take care of yourself and don't burn out.
Posted by: tom | 07 December 2008 at 06:37 AM